Bicycle Maintenance Checklist

Scroll to the bottom of the page to see an illustration of bicycle parts.

· Frame: The frame must be straight or aligned. It must have no cracks. In particular, check areas where the tubes are joined together, such as the bottom bracket area. A good time to check the frame is while you are cleaning your bike.

· Wheels: The wheels should be true (in other words, they should not wobble when you spin them). When fastened to the frame, the wheels should turn freely, without play. You should have no loose spokes. If bolts fasten the wheels to the frame, they must be tight. Quick‑release skewers (which are levered closed, not screwed) can be adjusted with a nut on the end opposite the lever if they are loose. When you are closing the quick‑release lever, you should start feeling some resistance when it is at a 45‑degree angle to the frame. Inadequate tightening of a quick‑release skewer is a common cause of a wheel coming loose from the frame.

· Tires: Tires should be properly inflated. Replace the tire if casing or sidewall cuts are present. Check for hidden glass in the tread, which will eventually cut the tire and puncture the tube if not removed. There should be no bulges or tire cords showing. Tires get old and cracked with time, even when not ridden.

· Headset: Must be adjusted so that it is free to move without play. It must not be pitted or it will stick in certain positions, most commonly straight ahead. Check by lifting the front of the bike and rotating the handlebars from side to side. Headset should spin freely and smoothly.

· Bottom Bracket: Should be adjusted to move freely without play.

· Crankset: Crank bolts must be tight. Check by pulling sideways on the crank - there should be no play.

· Brakes: The brake levers must be secure and immovable with moderate side pressure. The levers should not depress as far as the handlebar and they should return freely when released. The brake pads must be adjusted correctly, simultaneously hitting the rim surfaces, never the tires. The brake pads need replacing when worn beyond their wear lines.

· Cables: The cables should not be frayed or torn, and their housing not kinked. Broken cable strands mean that the whole cable must be replaced.

· Seatpost: The post must be aligned and the seatpost bolt must be tight.

· Saddle: The seat must be aligned straight ahead, the seat bolts tight.

· Drive Train: All gears must be working. The chain must not derail from either the chainrings or the rear sprockets. Test on uphill grades or with pressure to ensure cog/chain compatibility. Derailleurs must be fastened securely to the frame and be adjusted so as not to shift the chain into the spokes or into the chain stay. There should be no stiff links in the chain.

· Handlebars: These should be securely fastened. Full body weight on the hoods or aerobars, if used, should not result in any slippage. Handlebar plugs must be present at the bar ends.

· Stem: Fastened securely.

· Pedals: These must be fastened securely to the cranks. They should rotate freely. Clipless pedals need slight lubrication at the pedal‑engagement springs. Check that the shoe engages and disengages as desired. Adjust pedal tension if needed.

· Water Bottle Cages: Securely fastened. No cracks in welds or bends.

· Accessories (pannier racks, lights, fenders, etc.): Securely fastened. No cracks in welds or bends.

· Shoes: Cleats securely fastened and not overly worn. Velcro, laces, or other closures strong, functioning well, and not dangling.

After making adjustments or having work done on your bicycle, it's always a good idea to test it out with a spin around the block. Try all your gears, stand up on a hill ‑make sure everything is in good working order. Do not wait until the day of your "big" ride to try it out.